Hair Dye Health Risks & Safety Concerns

Stylists and colorists who regularly work around hair dyes may inhale or absorb the chemical ingredients in those products during application. This could increase their risk of developing certain types of cancers, including bladder cancer, breast cancer and leukemia.

There are three main types of hair dyes: temporary, semi-permanent and permanent. Temporary and semi-permanent dyes coat hair strands with color. Permanent dyes penetrate the hair cuticle, so washing and shampooing won’t impact the color.

According to the National Cancer Institute, permanent hair dyes account for roughly 80% of currently marketed hair dye products. Health and cancer concerns are generally tied to these hair dyes.

Ingredients in Hair Dye That May Be Harmful

Some ingredients in hair dye pose potential concerns, ranging from allergic reactions to an increased risk of certain cancers.

P-Phenylenediamine (PPD) is a commonly used ingredient in hair dyes and a type of aromatic amine, a hair dye ingredient that reacts with other parts of the formula to create colors. It is a key part of permanent hair dyes and might be associated with potentially serious health risks.

Some lawsuits that have been filed on behalf of hairstylists who developed cancer claim that PPD could play a role in the development of bladder cancer.

According to the United Kingdom’s National Health Service, PPD is a “known irritant and allergen.” It’s also the most common cause of hair dye reactions in people.

Research suggests there might be a link between repeated exposure to hair dye products and an increased risk of cancer. This correlation could be higher for stylists and salon workers who use dyes daily.

What Studies Say About Hair Dye & Cancer Risk

A 2010 analysis published in the BMJ evaluated concerns about high bladder cancer rates among professionals who often use or are around hair products.

“All our results taken into account, we conclude that there is good evidence for an increased risk of bladder cancer among hairdressers, in particular for hairdressers in jobs held [more than] 10 years,” the analysis stated.

The study expanded on more than a century of health concerns. In the late 1800s, a German clinician noted higher-than-expected rates of bladder cancer among dyestuff workers. Similar results were found in Great Britain soon after.

According to the American Cancer Society, research has consistently found an increased risk of bladder cancer among hairdressers and barbers. However, studies generally haven’t determined a higher risk of bladder cancer in people who simply get their hair dyed.

Hair dyes may also be connected to other cancers. Some studies have noted a possible increased risk of breast cancer from hair dye exposure. Research also suggests a higher chance of leukemia and lymphoma in people repeatedly exposed to hair dye.

However, research for these cancers has not uncovered as significant or consistent a link as studies have found for bladder cancer.

Who May Be at Higher Risk for Hair Dye-Related Cancer?

Research suggests that salon workers are at the highest risk of developing cancer from hair dye exposure. These professionals are around hair dye chemicals more often than customers who only come in to have their hair dyed once every few weeks or months.

A lawsuit filed in California court on behalf of a hairstylist who developed bladder cancer noted that she performed between 75 and 100 hair dye applications every week for more than a decade, resulting in thousands of exposure incidents.

While the potentially heightened risk of cancer is among the most serious health concerns of hair dye exposure, other risks include allergic reactions, hormone disruption and respiratory problems.

Allergic Reactions & Skin Sensitivities

Several key dye ingredients can cause allergic reactions. PPD may cause issues ranging from minor irritation to a full-on allergic reaction.

According to the U.K.’s National Health Service, a mild reaction may include irritation and inflammation of your scalp, neck, ears or eyes. You may also experience tingling or burning sensations.

A full-on allergic anaphylactic reaction could be more severe and develop in minutes and may require medical attention.

Hormonal Disruptions & Fertility Concerns

Some research suggests that hair dye could play a role in fertility concerns.

A study in Chemical Research in Toxicology evaluated the possible risks of hair dye exposure found. The study found that the odds of abnormal birth weight in newborns, which can lead to serious health issues, could be elevated in women who used hair dye before becoming pregnant.

That study also analyzed concerns that a hair dye ingredient called resorcinol could disrupt thyroid hormone synthesis and cause thyroid-related health issues. However, it determined that exposure to hair dye was unlikely to cause thyroid issues.

Respiratory Effects From Hair Dye Fumes

Inhaling some hair dye ingredients may lead to respiratory issues. Dyes often contain ammonia and hydrogen peroxide, both of which are known lung irritants.

According to NPR affiliate WHYY, respiratory problems are common among salon workers.

According to the American Cancer Society, the FDA’s authority is somewhat limited on hair dye regulation. The FDA does not approve each ingredient used in a hair dye product before they hit the market. The organization may not even know the full composition of what goes into hair dyes.

This was highlighted when NBC News was told by multiple doctors and researchers that some hair dyes still contain dangerous ingredients despite some companies saying they had changed their formulas.

When asked if manufacturers ever told the agency they removed carcinogenic aromatic amines, an FDA spokesperson told NBC News that “cosmetic products and ingredients generally do not need FDA premarket approval, and hair dye manufacturers are not obliged to inform FDA if they choose to remove coal-tar hair dyes from their products.”

While hair dyes can generally be sold without FDA testing or approval, the agency can regulate the products to an extent.

“FDA can take action against a cosmetic on the market if it contains a poisonous or deleterious ingredient that may make the cosmetic harmful to consumers,” the agency states on its website.

How Other Countries Regulate Hair Dye Ingredients

In 2006, the European Union banned 22 hair dye substances to improve consumer safety, while the U.S. has only banned one ingredient.

According to the Guardian, the European Union has banned or placed restrictions on over 1,300 chemicals used in cosmetics. The U.S. has only placed similar restrictions on 11 chemicals. 

For example, formaldehyde, which is used in chemical hair relaxers, is banned in Europe but available in the U.S.

Litigation has emerged in response to those concerns, with possible health issues front and center. Almost 10,000 hair relaxer lawsuits are active in federal court over claims that these products cause cancer.

Women who have used hair relaxers along with cosmetologists who work around hair dye are the most likely groups to be impacted by these concerns.